La Befana: Italian Traditions Explained
- Sierra Busch
- 23 hours ago
- 11 min read
Every January 5th, as dusk settles over Italy's piazzas and hilltop villages, something magical happens. Children hang stockings by their windows, parents whisper stories of a mysterious visitor, and the air fills with anticipation. But this isn't about Santa Claus - this is about La Befana, Italy's beloved Christmas witch– yes, WITCH– who flies through winter skies on her broomstick, delivering gifts and keeping alive one of Italy's most enchanting traditions.
If you've never heard of La Befana, you're not alone! Many travelers discover this captivating Italian tradition only when they happen to be in Italy during early January and stumble upon festivals, parades, and shop windows filled with images of a kindly witch. But understanding La Befana opens a window into Italian culture that goes far beyond the holiday season– it reveals how Italians blend ancient folklore with Christian tradition, how they celebrate family and generosity, and how they keep centuries-old stories alive in the modern world.
At Creative Edge Travel, we love sharing these deeper layers of Italian culture with travelers. La Befana represents everything we find magical about Italy: the way history and legend intertwine, the importance of tradition passed through generations, and the warmth of celebrations that bring entire communities together. Whether you're planning to visit Italy during the Befana season or simply want to understand this fascinating piece of Italian heritage, we're here to share everything you need to know about this beloved tradition.
In this article:
La Befana: Who is it?
La Befana (pronounced lah beh-FAH-nah) is a legendary figure in Italian folklore- an old woman who flies on a broomstick through the night sky on January 5th, the eve of Epiphany, delivering candy and gifts to good children and coal (or dark candy that looks like coal) to those who've been naughty. Think of her as Italy's answer to Santa Claus, but with a distinctly Italian twist that's far more interesting than any mall Santa!
But La Befana is so much more than just a gift-giver. In Italian tradition, she's described as an elderly woman with a soot-covered face from climbing down chimneys, wearing a tattered shawl and carrying a bag full of treats and a broom that's seen better days. Her appearance might seem scary to outsiders, but Italian children adore her - she represents warmth, generosity, and the continuation of cherished traditions.
The name "Befana" itself is thought to be a mispronunciation or evolution of the Italian word "Epifania" (Epiphany), the Christian feast day celebrating the visit of the Three Wise Men to baby Jesus. This linguistic connection hints at how La Befana bridges ancient pagan winter traditions with Christian celebration, a beautiful example of how Italian culture layers different eras of history into its modern practices.
What makes La Befana particularly special in Italian traditions is her character. Unlike the jolly, rotund Santa, La Befana is depicted as a hardworking, practical woman– often shown with a broom because, according to legend, she sweeps the floor before leaving, symbolizing the sweeping away of the problems of the past year. She embodies qualities that Italians deeply value: industriousness, caring for others, and the wisdom that comes with age.
We love how La Befana reflects authentic Italian values. She's not glamorous or perfect– she's weathered and worn from her work, but she keeps going because of her dedication and generous spirit. There's something beautifully Italian about celebrating an elderly woman as a beloved cultural icon, acknowledging that wisdom, experience, and generosity matter more than youth or appearance.
Origins of La Befana
The origins of La Befana reach back into ancient pre-Christian times, making this tradition one of Italy's oldest continuous cultural celebrations. Understanding where La Befana comes from reveals fascinating layers of Italian history and how ancient beliefs transformed over centuries.
Long before Christianity arrived in Italy, ancient Romans celebrated the winter solstice with a festival honoring Strenia, the goddess of purification and well-being. During this time, people would exchange gifts called "strenne" (a word still used in Italian today for gifts), and elderly women were believed to fly over fields at night, bringing blessings for the coming agricultural season. These wise women were seen as beneficial spirits who ensured good harvests and prosperity— sound familiar?
When Christianity spread through Italy in the early centuries AD, the Catholic Church followed a common practice of adapting existing pagan celebrations rather than eliminating them entirely. The timing of the Befana tradition— early January— aligned perfectly with the Christian feast of Epiphany on January 6th, which celebrates the arrival of the Three Wise Men (Magi) to visit the infant Jesus in Bethlehem.
This is where the Christian legend of La Befana takes shape. According to the most popular version of the story, the Three Wise Men stopped at La Befana's house on their journey to find the Christ child. They invited her to come with them, but she declined, saying she was too busy with her housework. Later, regretting her decision, she set out to find them with gifts for the baby Jesus.
However, La Befana never found the Wise Men or the Christ child. The legend says she's still searching to this day, and so every January 5th, she visits the homes of children throughout Italy, leaving gifts in case one of them might be the baby Jesus. Her eternal search and endless generosity have made her a symbol of redemption, perseverance, and the spirit of giving.
What fascinates us about La Befana's origins is how this tradition demonstrates Italy's genius for cultural synthesis. Rather than abandoning ancient beliefs when new religions arrived, Italians wove them together, creating something richer than either tradition alone. The pagan winter goddess and the Christian Epiphany celebration merged into La Befana— a uniquely Italian tradition that honors both the ancient connection to seasonal cycles and Christian spirituality.
This blending of old and new, pagan and Christian, is quintessentially Italian. Walk through any Italian town, and you'll see Roman ruins next to medieval churches next to Renaissance palazzos— layers of history existing side by side. La Befana embodies this same layering, carrying forward ancient Roman traditions while telling a Christian story, all wrapped up in a folklore figure that Italian children have loved for centuries.
La Befana: The Legend Nowadays
Today, La Befana remains one of Italy's most cherished traditions, celebrated with the same enthusiasm that Americans reserve for Christmas or Halloween. While the modern world has certainly changed how Italians mark this occasion, the essence of the Befana tradition continues to thrive in homes, piazzas, and hearts across the country.
On the evening of January 5th— known as La Notte della Befana (The Night of the Befana)— Italian children hang stockings (calze) by the fireplace, on door handles, or in windows, eagerly anticipating the arrival of the old woman on her broomstick. The excitement rivals Christmas morning in many households, and for children, the Befana's visit marks the true end of the holiday season.
The tradition of what La Befana brings has evolved but remains deeply meaningful. Good children receive candy, small toys, fruit (especially oranges and tangerines), and dolci (sweets). Children who haven't been on their best behavior might find carbone (coal) in their stockings— though today, this "coal" is usually black rock candy that's actually quite delicious! It's a gentler consequence than it sounds, very much in keeping with the Italian approach to parenting that values warmth and humor.
Many Italian families maintain traditional rituals around La Befana that connect them to previous generations. Grandmothers often tell the Befana story to their grandchildren exactly as their own grandmothers told it to them. Families prepare special foods— in Rome, befanini (simple butter cookies) are traditional, while in other regions, you'll find various sweets and treats associated with the holiday.
What's particularly beautiful about La Befana nowadays is how this tradition creates a uniquely Italian alternative to the increasingly commercialized, Americanized version of Christmas that's spread globally. While Santa Claus has made an impact in Italy, especially in northern regions, La Befana remains distinctly and proudly Italian. She represents Italian identity, connecting modern children to their ancestors in a way that transcends religion or commercialism.
In recent years, we've also seen La Befana embraced as a feminist icon of sorts— a powerful, independent woman who needs no help, makes her own decisions, and spends her time caring for children. She's elderly and "imperfect" by conventional standards, yet children adore her and adults respect her. There's something wonderfully progressive about this celebration of an old woman as a beloved cultural figure, especially in contrast to the youth-obsessed imagery that dominates much of modern Western culture.
The tradition has also expanded beyond individual homes into community celebrations. Many Italian towns now organize Befana festivals, parades, and events where you can meet La Befana in person (usually several of them!), enjoy street performances, and participate in games and activities. These public celebrations have helped keep the tradition alive and relevant, introducing La Befana to new generations while creating opportunities for communities to gather and celebrate together.
Where to Celebrate La Befana in Italy?
If you're lucky enough to be in Italy during early January, experiencing La Befana celebrations firsthand is an extraordinary window into authentic Italian culture. While the tradition is observed throughout the country, certain cities and towns have become famous for their spectacular Befana events that draw locals and visitors alike.
Rome: Piazza Navona
Rome's Piazza Navona transforms into a magical winter market from December through early January, culminating in spectacular Befana celebrations. This beautiful Baroque square fills with stalls selling toys, candy, decorations, and of course, countless Befana dolls and figurines. The atmosphere is festive and family-friendly, with street performers, musicians, and multiple "Befanas" wandering through the crowds delighting children.
On the evening of January 5th, Piazza Navona becomes the heart of Rome's Befana celebrations, packed with families enjoying the market's last night before it closes for the year. You'll see children clutching new toys, couples sharing roasted chestnuts, and befana-themed treats everywhere you turn. The energy is joyful and quintessentially Roman— loud, warm, and full of life.
We love bringing our guests to Piazza Navona during this time because it perfectly captures the Italian talent for celebration. The setting itself— one of Rome's most beautiful squares with Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers as a backdrop— adds magic to the experience. Plus, you're surrounded by Romans celebrating their own tradition, not a tourist-oriented spectacle.
Venice: Regata delle Befane
Venice offers perhaps the most visually stunning Befana celebration in all of Italy— the Regata delle Befane (Race of the Befanas). On the morning of January 6th, a fleet of gondoliers dressed as La Befana race down the Grand Canal, bringing the beloved character to life in the most Venetian way possible: on the water.
This regatta combines Venice's famous gondola racing tradition with Befana folklore, creating something uniquely magical. Imagine dozens of burly gondoliers dressed as elderly witches, complete with shawls, wigs, and broomsticks, rowing with surprising grace and speed down the Grand Canal while crowds line the bridges and waterways, cheering enthusiastically.
The Regata delle Befane represents everything we love about Italian traditions— they're taken seriously (these gondoliers race competitively!) but with a sense of humor and joy that makes them accessible and fun. After the race, there are celebrations throughout the city, with entertainment for children and families gathering in campos (squares) across Venice.
Urbania (Le Marche): The National Festival of La Befana
If you want the most comprehensive Befana experience, head to the small town of Urbania in Italy's Le Marche region. This Renaissance town hosts the Festa Nazionale della Befana (National Festival of the Befana), which many consider the official celebration of this beloved tradition.
Urbania claims to be La Befana's official home— legend says she lives in a house within the town. The festival runs for several days around Epiphany, featuring a Befana museum, La Befana's house that you can visit, workshops, performances, parades, and the spectacular descent of La Befana from the town's clock tower.
What makes Urbania special is the town's complete dedication to the tradition. This isn't just a festival; it's a community-wide celebration of Italian heritage. You'll meet multiple Befanas wandering the streets (all official!), participate in traditional games, taste local specialties, and immerse yourself in a celebration that feels authentic rather than commercialized.
For travelers seeking truly off-the-beaten-path experiences, Urbania during the Befana festival offers an unforgettable glimpse into regional Italian culture. The town itself is beautiful— a well-preserved Renaissance gem that most tourists never visit— and the festival creates opportunities to interact with locals celebrating their traditions.
Florence: Cavalcade of the Magi and Befana Celebrations
Florence marks Epiphany with the Cavalcata dei Magi (Cavalcade of the Magi), a historical procession that's been held since Renaissance times. While the focus is on the Three Wise Men, La Befana makes appearances throughout the city during this period, and the celebration beautifully illustrates the connection between the Christian feast of Epiphany and the folklore of La Befana.
The procession features hundreds of participants in elaborate Renaissance costumes, representing the journey of the Magi from the Pitti Palace to the Duomo. Throughout the day, you'll encounter La Befana in various piazzas, distributing candy to children and posing for photos. The combination of solemn religious procession and joyful folkloric celebration captures the duality at the heart of Italian culture.
Florence during this time also offers something special for food lovers— traditional Befana treats like schiacciata alla fiorentina (a soft, orange-scented cake) and befanini cookies that you'll find in bakeries throughout the city.
Tips for Experiencing La Befana in Italy
If you're planning to be in Italy for La Befana, here are our insider tips for making the most of the experience:
Timing matters: The main celebration happens on the evening of January 5th into the morning of January 6th. Many festivals and markets wind down after Epiphany, as this officially marks the end of the Italian Christmas season.
Look beyond tourist centers: While major cities have wonderful celebrations, smaller towns often offer more authentic, community-focused Befana traditions. Ask locals where they're celebrating— Italians love sharing their traditions with curious visitors.
Try the treats: Each region has special sweets associated with La Befana. From befanini cookies to marzipan coal to special cakes, tasting these treats connects you to the tradition in the most delicious way possible.
Embrace the family atmosphere: Befana celebrations are primarily for children and families. The atmosphere is wholesome, warm, and welcoming. Even if you don't have children, you'll feel the joy of families celebrating together.
Visit local markets: In the days leading up to Epiphany, markets across Italy sell Befana dolls, decorations, and treats. These markets offer wonderful opportunities for people-watching and soaking up the festive atmosphere.
Experience Authentic Italian Traditions
Understanding traditions like La Befana transforms how you experience Italy. Suddenly, you're not just a tourist visiting monuments; you're someone who understands the cultural heartbeat of the country, who recognizes the layers of history in everyday celebrations, who can appreciate why Italians do things the way they do.
At Creative Edge Travel, we specialize in these deeper cultural connections. When you join our small group tours or work with us for custom travel planning, we don't just show you Italy's famous sights— we introduce you to the traditions, stories, and people that make Italy extraordinary. Whether it's celebrating La Befana with a local family, learning to cook traditional holiday foods with an Italian grandmother, or experiencing regional festivals that most tourists never hear about, we create opportunities for authentic cultural immersion.
Planning to visit Italy during the winter season? Our Italy tours are designed around connecting you with authentic Italian culture and the people who keep these beautiful traditions alive. From cooking classes in family kitchens to exclusive experiences with local artisans, we'll help you discover the real Italy beyond the tourist trail.
Want to experience La Befana or other Italian traditions firsthand? Check out our Custom Travel Planning services where we can design an Italian adventure around your interests, whether that's diving deep into holiday traditions, exploring regional festivals, or connecting with locals who are passionate about sharing their culture.
The magic of Italy isn't just in its art, architecture, or food— it's in traditions like La Befana that have survived for centuries because Italians value their heritage and take joy in passing it forward. Now that you know about this beloved Italian tradition, you're one step closer to truly understanding what makes Italy so special.
Buon Epifania! (Happy Epiphany!)
Ready to experience authentic Italian traditions? Contact us at sierra@creativeedgetravel.com or visit www.creativeedgetravel.com to start planning your culturally-immersive Italian adventure!